Background noise
The day is bright gray with the sun lightly shining through the clouds, breaking through enough that I have to squint to look out. I wish I had my sunglasses, but if I had them, I probably wouldn't be using them. The mildly piercing warmth causes me to unzip my jacket as I walk along the brownish orange sandy cliffs. The waves match the gray sky, but with a turquoise tint. The long period swell leaves the ocean glassy until four waves arrive in the distance every fifteen minutes, rolling in to break right where the crowd of surfers is ready. I want to go out there. The surf is so good right now! Clean lines, no wind. Wow. But I do not go. I am stuck in a limbo. The cliffs are a challenging descent and a more challenge ascent when you are returning tired with a board strapped to your leg. I watch an older man leaving the water, he finally reaches the plateau on the cascading rocks after paddling in place and then finding his footing on the slipper surface. He is almost to the dry ...